Don’t keep an open bucket of smoldering ashes in your house. If it doesn’t burn your house down, the carbon monoxide emissions can kill you. This simple fact escaped me during my first winter in Alaska. I thought it was a shame to waste the heat of unspent coals, so I kept an open bucket of coals inside and went to bed.

Fortunately, I had smoke detectors equipped with carbon monoxide sensors. I ignored the first alarm. Then, my eyes bleary from the gas, I finally heeded the second alarm and discovered my error – alive.

You don’t need to be as foolish as I am to benefit from smoke detectors. But if you’re at least as foolish as I am, I don’t see how you can live without them. Once clunky and expensive, smoke detectors now come with a variety of handy features and at very affordable prices. One should be placed in every sleeping area of your home, on every floor of your home, in stairways, in main hallways, and in garages. Alarms should be placed on ceilings.

There are two primary types of smoke detectors for residential use: optical and ionization. Optical smoke detectors have a photoelectric sensor that activates when smoke alters the focus of a small beam of light. Optical smoke detectors are a good choice for placement in kitchens and bathrooms because they are less susceptible to false alarms triggered by cooking fumes or steam. On the down side, optical smoke detectors are somewhat slower to detect rapidly growing flash fires than ionization detectors.

Ionization detectors are generally a little cheaper than optical sensors, but can be more prone to false alarms. However, ionization detectors are great at detecting flash fires that produce very small smoke particulate. These detectors use a wee bit of a radioactive element that alters current between two electrodes when exposed to smoke.

Perhaps the best alarms are the ones that combine both optical and ionization detectors into a single unit. This way, you can get the best features of both technologies. Less common, but still available are air-sampling detectors, which can be highly calibrated and programmed with multiple alarm thresholds.

Some models of smoke detectors also offer carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide detection – but be sure that the model you choose is labeled to monitor gas levels full-time, even in the absence of fire. The kind I have actually talks to me, which I appreciate. It will tell me in words when its battery is low, if there is an alarm, and even the amount of CO or CO2 detected.

A word about batteries: They’re necessary. If your house was built to code, chances are that your detectors are hard-wired with battery back-ups and interconnected so that if one unit triggers, all will sound. But even these units’ batteries need periodic changing to remain effective. A good rule of thumb is to replace batteries at least once a year. Again, some smoke detectors will make an audible chirp or announce when their batteries need changing.

Smoke detectors themselves should be replaced every eight or ten years. So, if you have a yellowing hunk of plastic on your ceiling and you don’t know how old it is, this would be a good time to buy a new alarm. Newer alarms have a slimmer profile, are more efficient, and offer more features. Test your alarms regularly to be sure that they’re working and so you know what they sound like.

Finally, if you hear an alarm, do something. Don’t assume a false alarm or throw something at the unit. A recent study published in the Western Journal of Medicine found that Alaskans are several times more likely than residents of other states to pull the batteries out of smoke detectors because of false alarms. Don’t do that. What are Alaskans doing to trigger so many false alarms, anyway?

Adam Wasch promotes energy awareness for the Cooperative Extension Service (CES) and the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). For questions or comments please contact CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

According to Clive Davie, an engineer with the EPA, “We ask the manufacturer to provide us with a list of ingredients. If they are using the safest chemical for each type of ingredient, they earn the logo. If they’re not, we encourage them to reformulate.”

So far, the program has certified 22 products, from laundry soap to floor cleaner.

Click here to read a New York Times interview with Davie, published February 25, 2009.

Click here for a link to the EPA “Design for the Environment” list of certifed products.

Gail Koepf and Rocky Reifenstuhl, Fairbanks, Alaska homeowners, are building a new home using sustainable, energy efficient techniques. CCHRC staff are filming aspects of the construction for use in a future “Best Practices” video about homebuilding in the North. The following is the first entry from Gail’s ongoing journal about the project. We will continue to post entries as their work progresses.

We are currently facing a world of energy shortages, pollution, insecurity, and diminishing resources.  These challenges have been confronted throughout time by all living creatures, as their populations pushed the limits of their existing conditions.  In order to survive, they were challenged to adapt to a new environment or had to move on.  Today moving on is less and less an option, so we had better learn to adapt and live in a way that is sustainable.  My husband and I were in a life transition and were planning our new home.   Our view was that taking steps toward sustainability was a goal second only to the need for shelter.  I have been asked several times why I wanted to experiment with my own house.  The reality is it was one of my main reasons for building.  If I had wanted a conventional home, it would have been a lot easier to purchase one (especially in the current market!).  I know there are many in Fairbanks, particularly now, who with a little encouragement would be willing to shift their concept of the “dream home” to something that is smaller & more efficient.  I am posting some of our experiences to inform others like ourselves, who are interested in downsizing and retiring here, and who are looking in to smaller, more affordable energy efficient homes.

With global warming melting the Arctic’s eons-old ice at an alarming rate, shipping and oil companies are looking ahead at how to exploit the new open waters.

For the past 30 years, the summer Arctic ice pack has been shrinking. In 2007, the melt reached record levels. This past summer, the ice shrank to the second-smallest area on record.

And while much of the discussions so far have been focused on dealing with global warming and on preserving habitat and protecting polar bears and walruses, another change is looming. When will commercial interests be able to develop the once-impregnable region?

Scientists say the Arctic’s seas could be essentially free of ice in the summertime by mid-century.

Click here to read the whole article.

As the world seeks low-carbon forms of energy production to reduce the emissions blamed for global warming, the champions of nuclear power have been re-branding the industry as one of the world’s greenest.

Last month, the OECD Nuclear Energy Agency said “nuclear energy is virtually carbon-free” across its life cycle and “the only carbon-mitigating technology with a proven track record on the scale required.”

Now, more than two decades after accidents at Chernobyl and Three Mile Island, some people in the industry are backing a makeover for nuclear power stations in an effort to transform the industry from an industrial pariah to an environmental savior.

Click here to read the whole article.

With winter on the horizon, the wood burning season is starting to gain momentum and all indications are that it will be the busiest in recent history. This brings up the topic of chimney safety. Since people in Fairbanks primarily use factory built insulated metal chimneys, the focus of this article will be on this particular type.

Now is the best time to inspect your chimney. Once winter hits, attics and roofs will be a lot less accessible. A thorough visual inspection can be done by anyone. This involves examining the chimney wherever it is accessible, especially inside the roof. On the outside of the pipe look for dents, missing screws or bands, rusted metal, discolorations, separations between sections, and any other abnormalities. Perform the same inspection inside the pipe, with a powerful flashlight and a mirror if necessary. The pipe should be clean and smooth, with no defects or build up.

Insulated metal chimneys usually fall under one of two or three common brands and should have an ID label and a rating. Call or visit your local building supply stores to find who carries specifications for your brand of pipe. Product information is available on line too. Pay close attention to the required clearances from the pipe to any combustible surfaces, especially inside the roof. Improper clearance is where many fires get their start. There should be no insulation touching the pipe, even if it is rated as noncombustible, unless specifically approved by the manufacturer. Insulation that is installed closer than the minimum air space allows is a serious fire hazard. Attic insulation shields separating the chimney pipe the proper distance from combustible materials inside the roof are a standard off-the-shelf item. They can also be manufactured by local sheet metal shops for special applications.

There is another reason to maintain proper pipe clearance. If the chimney is less than the required distance from the framing, pyrolysis can occur. Through constant exposure to temperatures as low as 250 F, the chemical composition of wood can change, dropping the ignition point several hundred degrees. Every time the chimney passes through a floor or ceiling it must be surrounded by a fire stop to limit air flow from one level to the next. Typically this is done with factory supplied metal plates or trim rings that maintain proper clearances to the framing and other combustibles in between the levels.

On the roof, the chimney cap should be in place to control sparks and prevent water from entering the pipe. There are some general rules for chimney heights. The pipe should extend at least three feet above the point it exits the roof, and at least two feet above any wall, ridge, roof, or adjacent building. If it is more than ten feet from the peak, you should be able to measure down two feet from the top of the chimney and ten feet horizontally in any direction without contacting the roof. This is considered a minimum—greater heights may be necessary for draft and safety reasons. Check with the manufacturer for specifics relating to your application.

Make sure the chimney is protected from sliding snow, particularly on a metal roof. Snow stops, bracing, or crickets may need to be placed anywhere impact damage can occur. If you are installing a new chimney, be sure to inform your insurance company as their policies may require notification and inspection.

On a final note, if you are unsure of your chimney’s history, age, or condition, err to the side of caution. Chimney sweeps and wood heat installation specialists can be good resources for questions and inspections. If you plan to burn a lot of wood this winter in an old untested chimney, a professional inspection and some new pipe may bring you a lot of peace of mind, instead of an emergency visit from the fire department.

Ilya Benesch is the Building Educator at the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). For questions or comments please contact CCHRC at (907) 457-3454

“A number of test procedures are out of date or problematic,” says David B. Goldstein, codirector of the energy program at the nonprofit Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC). “Part of the reason is that the DOE doesn’t have the staff they need to do very much on test procedures. There’s also willpower. They don’t want to do it.”

What’s more, it usually takes the DOE three years to publish new rules—a period that includes comments from manufacturers, organizations such as Consumers Union, and others—and another three years for the updated minimum efficiency requirements to take effect. Comment cycles at other federal agencies are much shorter.

Click here to read the whole article.

Innovations in designing green chemicals are emerging in nearly every U.S. industry, from plastics and pesticides to toys and nail polish. Some manufacturers of cosmetics, household cleaners and other consumer products are leading the charge, while others are lagging behind.

For decades, many manufacturers used the most powerful weapons in their chemical arsenals, with scant attention to where they wound up or what they might have been doing to people or the planet.

Click here to read the whole article.

Crawl spaces are one of those areas in the house that tend to get neglected. The old adage “Out of sight out of mind” might apply here. Unfortunately, this also means that crawl space problems can go unnoticed until they progress into more expensive structural or health-related issues. The crawl space can also present a significant energy drain on a home if not insulated properly.

Good moisture control is a primary concern. This starts outside the building envelope, where many problems can be stopped in their infancy. Gutters are a relatively inexpensive addition to a house that can provide huge preventive paybacks. A house without gutters may direct a lot of water against its foundation. Soils, wood, and especially concrete, are good conductors of water—picture a paper towel soaking up water, concrete works the same way. If gutters are not an option, then the ground around the house should be sloped to direct water away from the building.

Once water reaches the foundation, things get a lot tougher. Therefore, the structure must be prepared to resist infiltration. Both concrete and wood foundations should have some form of waterproofing on the outside.

Once all external sources of moisture penetration have been addressed, the next step is to inspect the interior of the crawl space. With very few exceptions, exposed dirt floors should be covered and well sealed with a continuous vapor barrier such as 6 mil polyethylene. Without a good ground barrier, moist crawl space air will condense on any cold surface. Even a dirt floor that looks and feels “dry” can release significant amounts of moisture, especially after heavy rains.

Testing crawl spaces for radon is also strongly recommended. Radon is a cancer causing radioactive gas that occurs naturally in the earth. If you have never tested your crawl space or basement, the cold seasons are the best times to do so. Although high radon concentrations are very hazardous, remediation after detection can be relatively straightforward. Test kits and information are available through the Cooperative Extension Service at 474-1530.

How well a crawl space is insulated and sealed can affect the entire building. Interior Alaska building codes require foundations to be 42” below grade to protect the footings from freezing and frost jacking. Anything above that point stands a good chance of being frozen solid during the winter, causing serious heat losses if the crawl space walls and rim joist areas are under insulated.

Inspect the foundation walls closely. If fiberglass insulation was set directly against the inside walls with no moisture protection, or the dirt floor was left exposed, it may be wet and need replacing. If the floor joists were insulated, then the floor system should be looked at closely. Any exposed ducting should be inspected to make sure that all seams are sealed and connected. Be sure that exhaust fan piping doesn’t just terminate under the floor, but vents directly outside.

If you need to add or replace insulation, rigid foam and sprayed foam are good options. These types of insulation have very high R values, and also qualify as vapor barriers. If you use foam, especially below grade, make sure it is approved by the manufacturer for your specific application. Also, if they are exposed inside the structure, most unfaced foams are required to be fire protected for code compliance.

Tomorrow would be a good time to peak under the floor. The crawl space is integral to the foundation of the house, and in some cases the largest source of unregulated air flow in to the home. It is not a good place to let moisture, poor air quality, or bad insulation practices go unchecked.

Ilya Benesch is the Building Educator at the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). For questions or comments please contact CCHRC at (907) 457-3454

Heat Recovery Ventilation (HRV) systems are a relative newcomer to the cold climate construction scene, yet have become almost indispensible in today’s super-insulated, air tight homes. They are also becoming an increasingly common element in the current weatherization and insulation retrofitting trend. As older homes are undergoing energy facelifts, and becoming tighter and better insulated, they are also facing the same indoor air quality challenges one would see in new construction. In this article I am hoping to provide a basic understanding of how HRV’s work, their applications, and their advantages.

The HRV is principally designed to supply a regulated exchange of fresh air to the house, while simultaneously expelling stale indoor air. This is of particular importance in a home that is too tight to do so on its own, through passive means. At the core of the HRV unit is a heat exchanger where the airways exhausting the warm, moisture laden indoor air, flow next to the air passages bringing in outside air. At this junction, the cooler incoming air is warmed by the outgoing exhaust air, recovering a substantial amount of heat that would otherwise simply be lost. Typical heat recovery percentages can range from 70 to over 90 percent, depending on the unit and the controls. This is where the HRV shines in comparison to a simple exhaust fan that blows warm air directly outside.

A typical HRV system is designed such that its ducts supply fresh air to bedrooms and living areas while exhausting stale, humid air from bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, and crawlspaces. The HRV should not be substituted in place of a cooking fan, so a range hood should still remain the primary vehicle to remove grease and smoke from above the cook stove. The HRV is designed to be balanced so that it takes in as much air as it exhausts, maintaining close to neutral pressure. Consequently, it is important to note that it is not meant to be a means of supplying air to combustion appliances. Because the system is neutral, it does not present potential back drafting hazards such as one might find in conventional unregulated exhaust fans, which can possibly create excessive negative pressures. Most units run efficiently, using about as much power as one 60 watt bulb when operating, and the industry is constantly improving energy use and performance. As with any appliance, the HRV requires some minor maintenance. Every fall would be a good time to check the built in filters and clean or replace them as necessary.

In addition to regulating air flow in a home, HRV systems can also perform several other important functions. After talking with Rich Musick and Bill Reynolds at Solutions to Healthy Breathing, I learned that it is now possible to install an in-line filter system directly after the inbound fresh air leaves the HRV unit. This allows the home owner to filter the incoming air for particulates and odors. One application in this regard might present itself this winter to those people who may find themselves in neighborhoods with poor air quality due to excessive wood or coal smoke. The potential for pollution levels to increase in Fairbanks this winter is very real, and people with asthma or other breathing issues could benefit from this option.

One other feature worth mentioning is that with the right controls, an HRV can be made to operate in a recirculation mode. A humidity sensor in the unit insures that it meets the house’s air exchange needs, after that it can be programmed to default into recirculation. This would be an excellent feature for people who are using a woodstove as a major source of heat and need a means to distribute that heat to hard to reach areas in the house.

Up front an HRV system may seem like a significant expense, but it is also important to look at it as an investment. By improving indoor air quality, the HRV can help to insure peace of mind by providing a healthy living environment year after year. It also helps contribute to the longevity of the structure by removing moisture before it has the opportunity to do real damage. Keep in mind that in this climate, indoor moisture problems are a big concern not only to the house, but also the occupants if mold is allowed to proliferate. If you own an older unit, a control upgrade may be an option, and prove quite cost-effective and beneficial. If you are thinking about purchasing a system, as always, it pays to learn about specifics, and find an installer who is willing to educate and stand behind their product.

Ilya Benesch is the Building Educator at the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). For questions or comments please contact CCHRC at (907) 457-3454