By CCHRC Staff

Q: A lot of older homes use pink or yellow fiberglass insulation around doors or windows. If I’m going to reseal any of them, is there a better way to do it?

Fiberglass is a great insulator but still allows air to flow in and out. A can of minimal expanding spray foam will more effectively air seal your doors and windows.

Open the trim around the windows then push the fiberglass in slightly. Make sure the spray foam fills all the cracks for a tight seal. The goal is to make the area around doors and windows as airtight as possible.

Even low expanding foam will swell significantly. Painter’s masking tape can be used to protect finished surfaces from spillage and can be removed once the foam cures. As an alternative, a compressible foam backer rod and silicone caulking can also provide a good long-term seal in difficult spots — especially when if you are working in temperatures too cold to apply foam. Also moisture can affect the foam and it should not be applied to wet surfaces.

Q: When it comes to heat and energy expenses, why are walls such a big deal?

In looking at a home, people often think their roof is where they lose the most heat.

The walls, however, might be a bigger issue.

On a home, walls compose the greatest surface area exposed to the outside. This is important because the laws of thermodynamics teach us that heat will always move to cold whether it moves up, down or sideways. With an exterior wall, one side is always exposed to the cold so heat will naturally always try to move inside to outside through the wall. We tend to assume heat always rises, so our roof must be responsible for the greatest heat loss. What actually happens is that air rises when it is warmed and it becomes a vehicle for the transfer of heat. This does not mean there is any reduction in the amount of heat moving through walls. A home can easily have many times more heat loss through walls than through the roof.

There are many ways to reduce heat loss through walls. The simplest is to carefully caulk and air-seal any places where air can move from the interior or exterior, particularly around windows and doors. Re-insulating walls and adding additional insulation inside or outside can be done if proper techniques are incorporated.

Be sure to consult with or hire a professional before attempting this kind of weatherization.

Remember, a house is a system and what is done to one part of a house may affect overall performance of the home both positively and negatively.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

Last week as part of Vice President Biden’s announcement of 200,000 homes weatherized under the Recovery act, we asked you to send us your questions and comments about the weatherization process. Today, we’re following up with answers experts from the Department’s Weatherization and Intergovernmental Program:

1) From edmooney via Twitter: @Energy Besides caulking, what are the best values in weatherization for the Northeast region. #weatherization

Nationwide, the energy-efficient retrofits that consistently provide the best return on investment involve sealing gaps in the building envelope which allows conditioned air – either heated or cooled – to escape the interior of the home. States in the Northeast region, which on average have an exceptionally high number of heating degree days each season, are particularly susceptible to energy loss through poor air sealing of the building envelope.

These gaps in the building envelope can include joints between materials, gaps around doors and windows, and penetrations for piping, wiring, and ducts. A blower door test can be used identify these gaps and measure the aggregate degree of air infiltration into your home. Retrofit measures such as caulking, weather stripping, gaskets, and duct sealing can be used to seal these gaps and improve the energy efficiency of your home.

Continue reading: Response to Weatherization Questions

The recession is lingering, and so is the unspent stimulus money that was meant to help end it.

The latest example is the $3.2 billion that Congress voted in February 2009 as part of an economic stimulus package to simultaneously provide jobs and improve energy efficiency through block grants to states and cities.

Only about 8.4 percent of the money had been spent by the beginning of this month, according to an audit released on Friday by the inspector general of the Energy Department, and it has produced or saved only about 2,300 jobs as of the second quarter of this year.

The program was to provide money for the purchase of better lighting or heating and cooling equipment for buildings like city halls and schools. But it is off to the same slow start as a bigger program that was initiated at the same time to weatherize the homes of low-income people around the country. An audit of that program in February, also by the  inspector general, found that only $368.2 million of $4.73 billion, or less than 8 percent, had been spent.

Continue reading: Energy Funds Went Unspent, U.S. Auditor Says

BY CCHRC STAFF

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: Many people are fixing their old home and getting a rebate from the state. Is there still rebate money available for building a new home?

The statesponsored Energy Rebate Program for new construction is still active, although continuous longterm funding is uncertain. Any homeowner who builds a home that meets the Alaska Housing Finance Corporation (AHFC) 5Star Plus energy standards is eligible for a $7,500 rebate, however there are some important details that determine who qualifies and a specific process that must be followed.

The program operates from a statewide waiting list on a firstcome, firstserved basis. So the sooner you sign up, the better your chances are for benefiting from the program. The first step is to get on the waiting list. Locally, the staff of CCHRC’s Portal on Retrofits Training and Loans (PORTAL) can guide you every step of the way.

Call 455HEAT (4-328) or contact the AK Rebate Call Center tollfree at1-877AKREBATE (1-877-257-3-228). Once your name reaches the top of the list, AHFC sends out two forms: “5 Star Plus New Construction Energy Rebate Encumbrance Request” and the “5 Star Plus New Construction Energy Rebate Form.” As an ownerbuilder, when you submit the completed forms, you must also include a copy of an energy rating taken from the building plans that validates that the home will meet 5 Star Plus standards, which can be found on the AHFC website: www. ahfc. state.

ak. us. Once AHFC receives and approves the forms, $7,500 is set aside for one year during which the house must be completed.

There are several criteria to meet to be eligible for the program.

Only the original owner qualifies for the rebate, and the home must serve as the primary residence.

If the home is purchased from a builder, it cannot be more than one year old at the time of the first sale. Ownerbuilders can qualify too, however the home cannot be occupied for more than one year from the date of completion.

To qualify if you are an ownerbuilder , you will have to submit the right forms to the state once the home has been completed. These forms include the “Building Energy Efficiency Standard Certification (BEES),” which certifies that the home was built to meet the 5 star Plus thermal and ventilation standards. The form can be signed by a certified home inspector , engineer , energy rater , architect, or the builder if he/ she is approved to certify and has met the current BEES training and testing requirements.

A “Summary of Building Inspection” form must also be submitted, which validates that the home was built in compliance with local building codes. This form must be signed by a statecertified building inspector who has conducted all the inspections during the construction process, starting with the building’s footings. For this reason, it is important to begin the rebate process and hire an inspector before breaking ground on the home. Finally , the finished home must also have an energy audit.

These three forms must be completed, signed by the appropriate authorities, and submitted to AHFC with the reimbursement form. Although this process may sound complicated, the new home construction rebate is a great opportunity for an ownerbuilder or new homebuyer to offset a significant portion of the construction costs, and ultimately enjoy the long term financial and environmental benefits of building an energy efficient home.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, email us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (9-07) 457-3-454.

Alaskans with disabilities have ample opportunity to qualify for the special appliance rebate program being funded by a $658,000 grant from the federal Department of Energy and administered statewide by Alaska Housing Finance Corporation.

The federal program, designed to encourage Americans to use energy-efficient appliances, kicked off in Alaska this past March and is scheduled to remain in effect through February 2012, or until the money runs out -whichever occurs first.

Continue reading: Appliance Rebates Available for Qualified Alaskans

By CCHRC Staff

Q: What are some of the risks with adding insulation to the outside of my home?

It is a complex issue, and what works in one part of the state may not necessarily work in another. The key to successful exterior insulation is to keep moisture from entering the wall from the inside and from the outside. If you cannot ensure this will not happen, then you are insulating at your own risk. If too much moisture moves into your walls or ceiling, then you could end up with mold and rot.

For years, people in Fairbanks and other parts of the state have been applying various amounts of foam insulation to the exterior of their houses. However, this method can also contribute to moisture problems if not done correctly. These problems can originate from inside or outside the house.

In local building code, cold climate construction requires a vapor retarder, placed near the interior wall surface. Most times this consists of a well-sealed layer of polyethylene under the sheetrock.

This barrier membrane is designed to prevent indoor moisture from getting inside walls where it can condense. When you have heat and humidity inside, and a leaky vapor barrier, moisture may get inside a wall. If there are not enough outside layers of foam insulation, this moisture will cool, condense and begin causing problems. Having the proper ratio of insulation on the outside of the wall to insulation on the inside of the wall will help solve this problem.

Also, if you have a good existing interior vapor retarder and add exterior foam, you are creating, what many call, a “double vapor barrier,” as the foam is also relatively impermeable. Should enough moisture find its way into a wall under these conditions, it may have a difficult time drying out.

In some environments, there is the possibility that rain water can work its way into the wall, especially in combination with wind. To minimize these problems, your home may benefit from large overhangs, gutters and proper drainage. Another option is a good draining type of house wrap installed in combination with adhesive or metal flashings, which are applied before putting on the foam. These steps will ensure that if any water gets behind the foam, it will drain down into the ground rather than soak into your framing.

If you put exterior insulation on your house, it will become much tighter. As a result, your indoor humidity levels may increase and the house may no longer receive enough fresh air, making it necessary to better ventilate your home.

An early indicator of elevated indoor humidity levels are your windows. If you are seeing a lot of condensation, especially on a good quality doublepane or triple-pane, that is a good reason to look for a cause.

Q: Are electric stoves more energy efficient than propane ranges?

Strictly, electric energy is very efficient in a range, but it depends on what the cost of propane is, and what the cost of power is in relation. You would have to figure out how much energy, in BTUs, you are getting out of your propane and what you are paying for your kilowatt hours, and compare the two.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org. You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

An Anchorage lawmaker says he’ll file a bill offering middle class homeowners — strapped for cash and still reeling from high energy costs — a back door into energy efficiency upgrades.

We reported recently on the lack of follow through by thousands of Alaskans who started a home energy efficiency rebate program, funded by the Legislature and managed by Alaska Housing Finance Corp. Those who start with a baseline efficiency audit have 18 months to fund repairs, schedule an audit of efficiency gains, and apply for up to $10,000 in state reimbursements. That window is running out for many folks.

Rep. Chris Tuck, an Anchorage Democrat, talked with people in his district and discovered some who have been hit pretty hard by the 2009 economic collapse. The families make too much too qualify for a low-income state weatherization program, but are dealing with high credit card debt, receding retirement accounts and investments, and, at times, negative equity in their homes.

Those circumstances can make it pretty tough to pay several thousand dollars up front for efficiency upgrades, even with a state reimbursement likely down the road, Tuck acknowledged.

Click here to read the full story.

Join Alaska IPL at the Pioneer Park Civic Center on Saturday, January 30th, 2010 from 11 am to 3 pm, for an inspiring community event — One People, One Earth.

This free, family-friendly event will infuse fun, faith, education and charitable opportunities to learn about environmental stewardship and how you, your family, schools and congregations can save energy, resources and money.

Click here for more information.

The following workshops will be held from 6-8 pm at the Cold Climate Housing Research Center, 1000 Fairbanks Street, near West Valley High School and the University of Alaska Fairbanks. Call 907-457-3454 for directions.

February 1, 2010: Building Science Basics

February 2, 2010: Air Tightness

February 3, 2010: Ice Dams

February 4, 2010: Lighting & Appliances

February 8, 2010: Heating & Hot Water

February 9, 2010: Doors & Windows

February 10, 2010: Insulation

February 11, 2010: Ventilation