By CCHRC Staff

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: What are the advantages of hot water infloor heat versus baseboard heating?

Radiant hot water (hydronic) floor heating systems’ costs are usually higher than baseboards, however they offer significant performance advantages.

The typical hydronic floor heating system consists of tubing installed in a looping pattern in the floor. This arrangement is specifically sized and spaced to release a given amount of heat from the hot water flowing through the tubes.

There are two primary types of installations, “wet” and “dry.” A “wet” system also is known as “slab heating” and involves embedding the tubing in a poured concrete or gypsum floor. “Dry” systems route the tubing either under or on top of an existing wood subfloor.

Depending on the insulative properties of the floor covering (such as carpet), dry systems may need to operate at higher temperatures to perform comparably to wet systems.

With both types of systems, insulation is often added under the tubing to insure that most of the floor heat travels in the desired direction, rather than into the soils around the foundation.

One of the biggest arguments in favor of in-floor heat is the comfort level. With such a large surface area emitting radiant heat very evenly, most occupants with warm floors tend to feel more comfortable even if the air temperatures are slightly cooler, which in turn may lead to lower thermostat settings.

From the energy savings perspective, hydronic floor heating runs significantly cooler than hot water baseboards.

For instance, the water temperatures in the tubing running through a concrete slab usually range between 80 and 130 degrees F while baseboards operate between 130 and 165 degrees F. Usually, the lower water temperatures needed for slab heating allow the boiler to run cooler.

A cooler running boiler has several advantages, such as less heat loss up the chimney when the boiler is in an off cycle. Similarly, the boiler has less “jacket loss,” where heat is lost from the boiler to the room Cooler water heating can also make the best use of a condensing boiler, which can operate at lower temperatures and generate efficiencies of up to 94 percent.

Conventional boilers top at around 87 percent. When it comes to conventional boilers, cooler operating temperatures produce less system stress, which can extend the service life of certain boilers.

Although the initial costs are higher, the longterm benefits of hydronic floor heating are worthy of consideration, and can also contribute to the value of the home.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

The recession is lingering, and so is the unspent stimulus money that was meant to help end it.

The latest example is the $3.2 billion that Congress voted in February 2009 as part of an economic stimulus package to simultaneously provide jobs and improve energy efficiency through block grants to states and cities.

Only about 8.4 percent of the money had been spent by the beginning of this month, according to an audit released on Friday by the inspector general of the Energy Department, and it has produced or saved only about 2,300 jobs as of the second quarter of this year.

The program was to provide money for the purchase of better lighting or heating and cooling equipment for buildings like city halls and schools. But it is off to the same slow start as a bigger program that was initiated at the same time to weatherize the homes of low-income people around the country. An audit of that program in February, also by the  inspector general, found that only $368.2 million of $4.73 billion, or less than 8 percent, had been spent.

Continue reading: Energy Funds Went Unspent, U.S. Auditor Says

BY CCHRC STAFF

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: Many people are fixing their old home and getting a rebate from the state. Is there still rebate money available for building a new home?

The statesponsored Energy Rebate Program for new construction is still active, although continuous longterm funding is uncertain. Any homeowner who builds a home that meets the Alaska Housing Finance Corporation (AHFC) 5Star Plus energy standards is eligible for a $7,500 rebate, however there are some important details that determine who qualifies and a specific process that must be followed.

The program operates from a statewide waiting list on a firstcome, firstserved basis. So the sooner you sign up, the better your chances are for benefiting from the program. The first step is to get on the waiting list. Locally, the staff of CCHRC’s Portal on Retrofits Training and Loans (PORTAL) can guide you every step of the way.

Call 455HEAT (4-328) or contact the AK Rebate Call Center tollfree at1-877AKREBATE (1-877-257-3-228). Once your name reaches the top of the list, AHFC sends out two forms: “5 Star Plus New Construction Energy Rebate Encumbrance Request” and the “5 Star Plus New Construction Energy Rebate Form.” As an ownerbuilder, when you submit the completed forms, you must also include a copy of an energy rating taken from the building plans that validates that the home will meet 5 Star Plus standards, which can be found on the AHFC website: www. ahfc. state.

ak. us. Once AHFC receives and approves the forms, $7,500 is set aside for one year during which the house must be completed.

There are several criteria to meet to be eligible for the program.

Only the original owner qualifies for the rebate, and the home must serve as the primary residence.

If the home is purchased from a builder, it cannot be more than one year old at the time of the first sale. Ownerbuilders can qualify too, however the home cannot be occupied for more than one year from the date of completion.

To qualify if you are an ownerbuilder , you will have to submit the right forms to the state once the home has been completed. These forms include the “Building Energy Efficiency Standard Certification (BEES),” which certifies that the home was built to meet the 5 star Plus thermal and ventilation standards. The form can be signed by a certified home inspector , engineer , energy rater , architect, or the builder if he/ she is approved to certify and has met the current BEES training and testing requirements.

A “Summary of Building Inspection” form must also be submitted, which validates that the home was built in compliance with local building codes. This form must be signed by a statecertified building inspector who has conducted all the inspections during the construction process, starting with the building’s footings. For this reason, it is important to begin the rebate process and hire an inspector before breaking ground on the home. Finally , the finished home must also have an energy audit.

These three forms must be completed, signed by the appropriate authorities, and submitted to AHFC with the reimbursement form. Although this process may sound complicated, the new home construction rebate is a great opportunity for an ownerbuilder or new homebuyer to offset a significant portion of the construction costs, and ultimately enjoy the long term financial and environmental benefits of building an energy efficient home.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, email us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (9-07) 457-3-454.

The borough began taking applications last week for its wood stove repair and replacement program.

“The program is up and operational,” air quality director Glenn Miller said.

Applications are available at the borough air quality office on Peger Road.

The program is still evolving, and applications won’t be available on the borough website until final modifications are made, Miller said.

Qualifying residents will receive government assistance replacing outdoor wood boilers and old wood stoves for cleaner-burning models approved by the Environmental Protection Agency. Cash payouts and tax credits are available to those who switch to gas or oil heat.

The program is part of a larger endeavor to improve the air in Fairbanks.

By CCHRC Staff

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: I have a concrete foundation. I heard insulating your foundation can save heat. How can I do that?

Concrete is very conductive, and heat always goes to cold, so a foundation without insulation is basically a bottomless heat sink. If the foundation is un-insulated, there are definitely opportunities to save some heat.

Current code requires an R-value of 15, which is about 3 inches of blue foam.

Ideally, digging out the outside of the foundation and insulating the outside will keep the foundation warmer but doing this type of work on the outside of a home is not always practical. In such a situation, put foam on the interior of the home’s outside walls and tape the joints.

On a similar point, the rim joist area is prone to air leakage where the joists meet the outside wall.

Often, fiberglass insulation is put into joist bays, but that is not enough to stop air leakage. A better choice is to install sheets of foam fitted to each joist bay, then spray foam around the edges.

Another option is to hire a spray foam contractor to spray between the joists.

These techniques will help stop air flow and heat loss through that part of the foundation.

Q: Is there a way to limit the amount of offgassing in my home or ventilate it in some way?

For those who do not know the term, offgassing, or outgassing, is the release of gas from materials over time. Often these materials are plastics or other petroleum-based substances that release chemicals that can be hazardous to health.

For starters, try to use “green” materials that do not offgas hazardous substances like formaldehyde and other volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Low VOC and non-VOC paints, carpets, caulks and glues are available. Furniture and fabrics also offgas, so look for healthy alternatives such as solid wood furniture and other non­VOC products. In new construction, despite the best attempts to use entirely healthy products, there will probably be some type of VOC. Before moving in to a new home, ventilate the home as much as possible. One method is to turn the thermostat up very high, to promote outgassing, and run the ventilation system at high speed for a day or two. This tactic will help “bake out” and vent VOCs.

In older homes, particleboard countertops, shelving and cabinets can be coated with a non-VOC sealant to prevent further outgassing.

Also, use greener cleaning products and store chemicals outside rather than indoors. Try to purchase only as much as needed so unused chemicals do not sit around.

The best way to get rid of offgassed substances is to regularly make sure the home is properly ventilated by opening windows and using mechanical ventilation.

A well-ventilated home will exchange air more frequently, exhaust pollutants and bring in fresh air.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

By Cold Climate Housing Research Center Staff

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

I heard that metal-framed windows are a bad choice for Alaska. Why and what should I do about it?

Most metal-framed windows are made from aluminum which is a highly conductive material. The laws of physics dictate that heat will always move in the direction of cold. When the temperatures drop outside, the aluminum acts as a pipeline, moving heat from inside to outside. Also, a colder window is more sensitive to moisture and will gather condensation.

Replacing metal frames is the preferable thing to do, however, not always practical. Fortunately, there are some other easy solutions. Covering the inside face of a window with a shrink wrap will create dead air space that will help keep the window warmer. Curtains and shutters will help as well.

I am thinking of putting in a heat pump system for my home. What types of problems are associated with heat pumps?

While they are a proven technology in the lower 48 states, heat pumps are still a relatively new technology in the state of Alaska. Heat pump performance can vary significantly with different soil conditions and site exposures. As a result, installations need to be evaluated on an individual basis.

When installing a heat pump system, caution must be taken around foundations. Installing a system too close to a foundation can increase the risk of potential permafrost problems, such as frost jacking. There is some question as to how a heat pump will work over time if it removes more heat from an area than can be replaced by surrounding soils and seasonal conditions, especially in Alaska where ground temperatures are cooler to begin with. On the positive side, there are methods to curb excessive cooling, such as adding a solar thermal collector to recharge the ground during the warmer seasons. This is also a proven technique, though, again, it has yet to be proven in Alaska.

Installation cost is another consideration, as the systems themselves can cost between $10,000 and $20,000. For the time being, heat pumps are showing good potential but we still need more trials in Alaska’s cold climate to give a definitive answer.

Do you have any advice for woodworking with local birch?

Birch is not used for framing and structural applications the way spruce is, but it does lend itself well to finish work. Birch has a lot of color. The heartwood can be very dark while the sapwood can be very light. In addition, the grain is rarely straight which gives the wood a ‘figure.’ After varnishing, the combination of colors and grain can be quite eye-catching. Each tree is unique and especially with birch, there can be big variations in wood appearance from one tree to the next. As examples, birch can add wonderful highlights to kitchen cabinets, and floors.

Birch is denser than cottonwood or spruce, making it better suited for stairways and tabletops. When working with birch, make sure there is plenty extra so any undesirable defects or twisting can be milled out or replaced. When it comes to panels and drawer fronts it is a good rule to varnish both sides and the edges, to keep the wood stable. As humidity changes over the seasons, moisture will penetrate an unvarnished side to a greater degree, which can cause warping.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org. You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

These days, it is popular to put foam insulation on the outside of buildings.  How did all this come about? 

      A building loses heat through its framing, which is called “thermal bridging.”  Wood has less insulative value than any kind of insulation.  For instance, a wood stud has an R-value of 1.25 per inch.  If a building has a standard framed wall, whether it is 2×4 construction, or 2×6 construction, the studs span from the interior of the wall to the exterior of the wall. For a 2×6 wall, that would give you an R-value of about R-7 where the stud is located.  If you were to take all the studs in a wall and stack them side by side, you would have a wall that is 11-25% wood depending on how it is built.  Even if a wall is full of R-21 fiberglass insulation, the insulative value of the wall is dramatically worse when you average in the less insulative value in the wood.

      At least 20 years ago builders began experimenting with putting insulation on the outside of homes as a way to stop heat loss created by thermal bridging. Adding foam to the outside of a wall “wraps” your home in a continuous layer of insulation, thus preventing other building materials from conducting heat to the outside and cutting down on the air leaking out of your house.  This technique has been used in many cold climate regions.  The PERSIST (Pressure Equalized Rain Screen Insulated Structure Technique) is an exterior insulation technique that has been used in Canada for many years, while the REMOTE (Residential Exterior Membrane Outside Insulation Technique) Wall System is popular here in the Interior. 

Where can I recycle glass in the interior? 

      Recycling glass is a challenge because the material is heavy and difficult to ship out of Fairbanks and then out of Alaska.  Also, Anchorage recently ended their glass recycling program, in part because the market for glass is currently not very good. 

      Here in Fairbanks, there are a few small artisan-type businesses that are reusing glass, but they cannot handle large volumes and typically have more than they need already.  However, the Borough Recycling Commission is looking at ways to use glass here locally potentially as road fill and construction fill.  These plans will take time to develop, so if you have any input, contact the Recycling Commission through the Fairbanks North Star Borough at 459-1000. 

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC).   If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.  You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

By CCHRC Staff

Q: How can I keep condensation off my windows in the winter?

Condensation is a product of the relationship between humidity and temperature.

The warmer the indoor air is, the more water vapor it can hold. When the air moves next to a window it can no longer hold the same amount of water vapor because the temperature is colder close to the window. This is when you start seeing condensation forming. As an example, if your indoor temperature is 70 degrees and outdoor temperature is 0, then moisture will begin to condense on a single-pane window when there is roughly 15 percent relative humidity in the house. A double-pane will be subject to condensation at around 25 percent to 40 percent humidity, and a triple-pane will fall into a range of around 30 percent to 50 percent. These number ranges are based on average window insulation values.

A really good triple-pane window may be able to withstand significantly higher humidity levels before condensation occurs. The target humidity levels for occupant comfort in a home range from about 30 percent to 50 percent, however the lower end of this spectrum is considered safer in cold climates such as ours, due to concerns with condensation within walls and ceilings. When the humidity is really low, some people become prone to respiratory infections. Of course high humidity can cause similar problems with bacteria and mold growth in the building. As the winter air in Fairbanks is so cold and dry, it is usually difficult to attain anything close to 50 percent humidity in a properly ventilated house.

To keep condensation off windows, make sure your home is properly ventilated.

The presence of excess moisture around windows is a good indicator of the effectiveness of ventilation in your home. Shoot for the low end of the target humidity range, to keep both you and your home healthy.

Q: Can I face repercussions if my home is violating building code or it is out of date?

In Fairbanks, building inspectors primary focus is on new construction and remodels. When you are remodeling a home that is not built to code, inspectors only require that any new work meets current code.

Older parts of a building that are not involved in the remodel are not subject to same requirements, unless the inspector sees a situation that could jeopardize the life and safety of the occupants.

When it comes to code compliance, it is important to be aware that building codes are updated and revised on a regular basis. If your home is not up to date, do not panic.

Inspectors are not police that travel around town making sure residents bring their houses up to code. But remember, building codes exist to ensure the health and safety of the occupants, so a compliant house is a safe house. Furthermore, if you plan on selling your home, a buyer or lender may want an inspection before the sale is final. Any code violations will likely have to be corrected at that time. It would be better to deal with those issues before selling your home.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org. You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of

For starters, there are the basics of electrical safety: when you are plugging in anything, you do not want to make direct contact with the circuit because of the risk of electric shock. Besides that, a lot of Fairbanks car fires can be attributed to improperly maintained vehicles. Oil leaks, fuel leaks or other heating elements can be ignited by a small spark. Because winterizing cars in Fairbanks includes installing electrical heating devices, people need to be more cautious about leaks because of the risk of fire.

So if you have leaks, get them checked out and perform any other standard car maintenance.

Could those work in Alaska?

The shingles are going to be covered with snow, so how will that factor into their

East or west might work too, depending on how your roof is built and the pitch of the roof. Consider all the options before choosing a system.

A Heat Recovery Ventilator, or HRV, is designed to bring fresh air into your home. The “tighter” your home is (fewer leaks in insulation, doors and windows), the more essential an HRV is to the safety of the occupants. The other important part of an HRV, heat recovery, means it captures as much of the heat that is leaving the building as possible. You have already heated the air in the house.

To bring fresh air in, you are going to have to expel stale air, but that air has heat in it that you do not want to waste. So the HRV acts as a heat exchanger. As cold fresh air moves in, the warm stale air moves out. When the two air flows pass by each other, the heat from the warm, stale air is transferred to the cold, fresh air through a heat exchanger. These devices will help keep your home warmer in the winter, while saving you energy and money because you do not have to reheat the air coming into your home quite as much.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org. You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.